A cold, raw rain falls, disturbed by winds that occasionally must push 20 knots. It is 58° and the visibility appears to be less than a mile. The American Cemetery here would be impressive in any weather and I am somehow glad to visit this place in poor conditions, not unlike those confronted by brave Allied forces 65 years and four days ago.
I’ve come to Normandy to learn more about the invasion of France and to understand some, just some, of the forces at work in this critical moment in world history. The American Cemetery is a somber breath stealer. The northern edge slopes down to a parapet overlooking Omaha Beach. As I stand looking northward the chilly damp weather beats down steadily; the view out to sea is curtained by low clouds. Behind me lie 9,387 graves beneath white Lasa marble headstones; the orderly array is staggering in size and scope. Our guide makes it clear: This is a cemetery, not a memorial.
