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The forest below was thick and rolling, with leafy hilltops set ablaze by the setting sun and brooding valleys already lost to deepening shadows. A few lights twinkled to life through the canopy, but there was little other evidence of the hamlets and roads that my atlas showed sprinkled through these foothills of eastern Kentucky. I decided that the inky reservoir on my left must be Lake Cumberland. That put the famed Cumberland Gap ahead and to our right.
