Up ahead is a massive, rock monolith that looms up from the desert floor like one of the towering shapes in Monument Valley. There is a runway Craig wants to show me at the top of this flattened, tree-covered rock-only 700 yards long, but a good strip for the Cessna 180 Craig also flies. "You can come up here and camp overnight, and you can see forever," Craig says with a touch of wonder in his voice. "And from here, you can still get up above the glaciers of Mount Kenya in about 25 minutes' flying time." Born and raised on Lewa Downs, Craig is clearly still in love with this land, as well as the people and animals who inhabit it. And as we wind our way back home over manyattas, acacias, and a stunning collection of wildlife, I can't say as I blame him.