I had just finished packing my suitcase and refueling my rental car, ready to depart L’Agulhas, a sleepy fishing village built on the soft green hills and limestone rocks of Africa’s southernmost point. My last two days in South Africa were spent soaking up the sunlit serenity of this surfside enclave where the Atlantic and Indian Oceans converge. I thought that the trip had reached its apex, until I happened to pull out a brochure I had placed in my pocket that advertised scenic coastal flights. At that point, I knew flying in an open-air bush plane over the exotic landscape of what is quite literally the end of the earth was precisely what I needed to experience before heading back home.
Fortunately, I had plenty of daylight left to attempt my goal of soaring around the Cape and among the seagulls in an ultralight aircraft. Wasting no additional time, I immediately telephoned the Sea & Sky Flying Club and was warmly received by Stefney Boshoff, co-owner with her husband and pilot, Andre Boshoff. I was prepared for my request to be denied having not made an advanced booking and also since their hours of operation vary during the off-season winter months. However, when I told Stefney that I was available immediately and wanted to go up for an hour, she cheerfully responded; “Wonderful! We’ll see you in 10 minutes!” The total price would cost 900R (roughly $90) and includes membership to the club. A bargain! I felt a sense of relief and a burst of excitement that would continue to amplify during my upcoming expedition.
I had mentioned to Stefney over the phone that I was a licensed pilot and although I realized I was signing up for an aerial tour, I hoped that Captain Andre would kindly allow me to log some time as pilot-in-command. As most any aviator can attest, our time on the ground is quite often spent wishing we were in the air. Flying is the consummate therapy from the stress and gravity of life. Therefore, I felt overjoyed when Andre responded to my request to take the controls by telling me; “Absolutely. That will be no problem.” I officially could not wait.
The fifteen-minute car ride from L’Agulhas to the Sea & Sky hangar at Andrew’s Airfield in the neighboring town of Stuisbaai went by in a blink.
Tucked between acres of Agulhas limestone fynbos and rolling sand dunes along the shoreline, Andrew’s field is at land’s end. Geographically, there are no more airports below this location on the entire continent of Africa. To a large extent, this is partially what makes Andrew’s an attraction for both pilots and aerial tourists alike. When I arrived, I felt a sense of peace as I stood on the quiet tarmac, breathed in the crispness of the marine-chilled air, and set my eyes on the beautiful bird built of aluminum and canvass that would carry me away toward the horizon.
Officially known as the Bat Hawk, this particular ultralight aircraft is renowned for its superb level of safety, reliability, and the fully panoramic visibility it provides. A pre-flight check revealed a flawless exterior. There was not a scratch tainting its red, yellow, and black paint scheme. The wooden propeller, fixed in front of the wings and above the cockpit, was equally immaculate and sturdy. Its Australian-manufactured Jabiru engine was fully exposed by design, allowing maximum air intake. Each of its nuts, bolts, cranks, levers, and cylinders simply added to the raw purity of the entire flying machine.
Once the airplane was out of the hangar, Andre motioned for me to climb aboard. Placing both hands on the strut of the wing, I stepped into the right-hand seat and strapped myself in securely. With the turn of the key switch and brief gurgle of fuel mixture prompted by the spark of ignition, the engine was alive and stentorian. After a brief taxi and smooth advance of throttle, Andre demonstrated how quickly the Bat Hawk could take off and climb.
As soon as we were airborne, the ocean popped into view just over the beachfront. Off the coast of Cape Agulhas, the water projected distinct layers of blue as the subtropical currents from the east mixed with the cooler flow from the west. Close to the shoreline, the sea has an almost greenish tint, which turns turquoise slightly further out, finally transitioning to an indigo in the deeper parts.
Making a slow right turn to follow the shoreline, the crosswind coming from the south could be felt as Andre offered me the flight controls. Cruising at an airspeed of approximately 65 knots (roughly 75 miles per hour) at an altitude of 500 feet, I made some clearing turns and felt the acute responsiveness of each input on the Bat Hawk.
While heading westbound towards the old L’Agulhas Lighthouse, which has stood since 1848, it was breathtaking to see the vastness of the rugged countryside beyond the hillside village. Close to 220 kilometers (around 150 miles) stood between where I was flying and Cape Town. Despite multiple towns in between, L’Agulhas still feels quite remote. I found myself looking around, wondering where I could land the airplane in the unlikely event of engine trouble or some sort of emergency. Fortunately, the Bat Hawk is designed to land in 50 meters (150 feet) or less. There were certainly plenty of options, including the beach or perhaps even a side street.
It didn’t take long to refocus on the primary tasks at hand: piloting and sightseeing. Flying over the official southernmost point of Africa was initially remarkable because it is quite the brag-worthy logbook entry. However it is the waves thrusting along boulders and the rising sea spay that can be felt while making a low pass at around 100 feet or less above the ground that truly captures the majesty of this experience.
Continuing briefly westward past the L’Agulhas Light House, I could see all the way out toward Gansbaai where I had been cage diving with great white sharks just several days earlier. While gazing down on a rusty frame and broken shadow of an old shipwreck, it became clear that despite the exotic beauty of my surroundings, I was in a very vulnerable place. While the temperatures and level of rainfall here are not extreme, there are significant storms that occur frequently off the coast during the winter. Accidents and even death are common realities in this “Cape of Needles” as many ships and fishermen must contend with sizable wave and swell activity augmented and sustained by the clash of currents from the cold Atlantic with the warm Indian Ocean. However, these threats seem rather distant during a cloudless day that can best be described as divine.
On the way back to Andrew’s Field, I took the Bat Hawk down to 10 feet above the khaki-tinted beach past the edge of town. Thrilling. I could have landed it right then and there, but that would not have been entirely legal. Before setting the wheels down at our official arrival point, I asked Andre what he loved most about his job. He simply and assertively replied: “This isn’t work.” I immediately identified. Doing this once felt like a dream. Making it part of my daily routine could very well be the closest thing to heaven on earth. Andre and Stefney Boshoff are blessed with inspiration and thrive on sharing their zest for adventure with others, whether pilots or spontaneous sightseers, who are willing to open themselves to the rush of this ultimate experience.
View more photos from this ultralight flight in South Africa here.
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